A little while ago I obtained a stack of old electronic instrument paperwork which I’ve been sorting through and am planning to scan. To start with, this is a single sheet giving what seems to be an update for the Armon “A61S-A492-K4009-ARMONPIANO”. I’m not clear whether that’s one or three separate models. The update is for a revision to a tone generator board, now AR-27. It’s undated but I’d guess late-70s. Perhaps this will be of interest to someone?
For some years I’ve been writing the Quasimidi 309’s full name as Rave-0-Lution with a zero in the middle rather than a capital O, which I’ve never liked but had somehow believed it was the original. But it struck me earlier that I can’t remember why I thought that, so I should check. And I realised that I can’t tell the difference at a glance between the O (presumably) in LUTION and the 0 (presumably) in 309 anyway, let alone decide which of them the middle character matches.
I do have a PDF of the manual but it’s a scan. As it happens I’ve had the font — Serpentine Bold Italic (PS Type 1) since about the time Quasimidi made this and it’s a good bet that they had the same font, as it was part of a Freehand package at the time if I recall. So I looked at them on screen to see if there’s a difference and couldn’t see any. So I put them one atop the other in Illustrator with colours mixed, and, yes, there’s a difference, but to be honest it’s so slight that it might as well not be there.
I never much liked this font though I probably used it for odd jobs around that time once or twice as we weren’t spoiled for choice. (Nor were Quasimidi.) But this isn’t what I’d call good design. Perhaps this package is traced from the originals, and the originals were identical? In which case I shouldn’t bother asking if it’s a zero and just use the O? I took close up shots of the middle character and the O as printed on the Q309 to compare, and put the one atop the other in Photoshop. There’s less of a difference here than between the font outlines, but still, there is a difference, and most of the differences are in the same places, which I think is a smaller difference than you’d expect from lithographic printing on brushed aluminium anyway. (In both images the majuscule O is in green and the zero (?) is in red.)
I’m not completely certain one way or the other, but I’m feeling free to write it as Rave-O-lution rather than Rave-zero-lution in future.
Posted under Miscellanea at . Last updated 2024-11-13 17:08.
Sometimes you seem to leave messages for your future self. I found this scribble in a box of 20-year-old documents I was sorting through.
In the moment of your birth you began to learn to breathe, inhaling air, exhaling; crying at first; it was as new to you as you to the world. But you had an instinct for it. What didn’t come naturally came before long through learning — when to breathe and when not to breathe, and when to breathe in and when to breathe out. I assume this is all true, because you’re still alive.
And yet the strange thing is, you’re not happy. I wonder why we don’t have the same instinct for happiness we have for air. We know somewhere that once a moment’s joy is in us we have to let it go again lest it turn stale and choke us . . . yet it seems difficult to turn this knowledge into action . . . as if we spent our days turning red in the face and moaning about letting the moment’s breath go.
So learn: Each moment of joy is that moment’s joy; it cannot be grasped without halting the flow of happiness by which you live. Breathe it out, use it for speech or for song, but at all events, do not seek to squeeze it within you and suck up more without letting the old air go. Learn to breathe again.
Happiness is like breathing.You cannot hold a breathfor longlest it turn stale and choke you,but you learned to breathe it seems . . . You must also learn to exhalethis moment’s happinessand allow the next moment’s joy in.
(Update: Since people seem to like it,here it is as a printable PDF.)
Posted under Musical Technology at . Last updated 2024-09-17 21:43.
I got this, ready built, because I needed a simple switching function for another Eurorack module and it was being sold cheaper than any actual switching module or combination that should do it, and hey another sequencer will always be handy. So here’s some notes:
There’s no start / stop button(s) or input(s). It can be stopped by plugging a dummy plug into the clock input but that’s yer lot. This seriously restricts its utility because you can’t easily get it to work in sync with other devices or even start it manually at a desired time. (But it occurs to me that you could mount a switch on the end of a dummy plug?)
The sequencer doesn’t seem to respond to V‑Trig signals at the clock input in the way I’d like; that is, it resets to 0V but most input sources I use start high. Inverting the input fixes that, but it then starts out of step so anything it’s controlling may need to be reset to the previous step.
The clock input is a bit finicky in other ways; not all clock signals will drive it; perhaps it needs a slightly higher voltage. The Doepfer dividers manage it, some other modules don’t. (This is independent of polarity.)
Sometimes it steps the outputs without stepping the LEDs but I haven’t worked out how that was happening, and by the time I got it to work it wasn’t happening any more.
There is a manual available from Erica but it’s a build-it manual and is very short on actual functional description of the finished module, so all the above points had to be worked out slowly and uncertainly rather than just read, and remain a little tentative.
With that worked out, it’s doing the job as intended but if I’m going to use it for the usual range of purposes one might use a sequencer, a useful mod might be to put a switch on the internal clock signal. And a reset switch to start it high if need be. For the time being I’m using an external inverter on the input.
My MS‑10 has been behaving a little poorly recently, with the EG release time fluctuating to a gradually growing degree. So I’m going to have a look at it. First, have a look at the service manual as this failure seems likely to be a misbehaving capacitor. And yes, there’s a 6µ8 Tantalum cap (C35) on the release stage, so that’s the main suspect. I hear some bad things about Tantalums, but I’ve never had one fail before. Anyhow, I did have the thing apart for cleaning when I got it but didn’t take the PCBs out as it involves a fair bit of unscrewing things. So this is my first look at the relevant board (KLM-126c).
(Picture taken after repair.)
Checking C35 in-circuit, difficult to be certain but nothing obvious wrong.
original drawing by Armon c.1970s
